Thursday, August 13, 2015

FERNANDO DE NORONHA: Final installment.

I loved Fernando so much, I never wanted this trip to end!  But we crammed our last day good and full, so that we would at least not die of sadness at leaving. :)

Fernando has lots of hikes/trails to beaches, but some of them require that you hire a guide.  Lisa and I weren't exactly sure how to do that, nor did we want to pay for someone to dictate our exploration, so we stuck to the ones we could do on our own.  Here's the run down of our last day (and a half!)

DAY 5:

Lisa and I got up early and went to the sueste overlook (near where we went snorkeling), which was super awesome!  We were by ourselves (aka had no guide to explain anything to us), so I don't really know why, but the waves go both directions!  I think it probably has something to do with strong winds blowing the opposite direction of the natural tide?  Something like that.  Anyway, pictures do *not* do it justice, but it was super neat!  The waves just crash and form this whole area that's white and frothy from waves hitting each other.  SUPER cool.


I wish this photo captured how cool the colliding waves were!!!



Then we went down a side trail so we were actually looking over the bay where we had been snorkeling.  It was really funny, because like I said in my other post, the water isn't super clear, and you can't really see anything that isn't directly under you.  So they say there are tons of sea turtles in that water, but I only saw a few snorkeling.  When we were sitting on the overlook though, we probably saw at least ten or twenty turtles just swimming along and coming up for air!  Ha.  It was so ironic.  We saw some people snorkeling in a little group, and kept seeing turtle heads popping up all over the place....not by them.  Haha.  Anyway it was super cool. :)

Lisa exploring through the ridiculously tall grass

I like how this picture turned out :)




Then we caught a bus to Cacima, where Lisa and I got coconuts to drink (yes, they are always as good as I remember and I could drink about 12 in a row), as well as a giant salad to split and some mandioca (manioke/tapioca/macaxeira) fries.  [Random note:  I have no idea why they have so many words for that, but I think it's really interesting that they call it mandioca, which is so close to the Tongan word "manioke".]  I love those fries.  Mmm..

I loved walking along these roads.  SO much.

I'm kind of obsessed with dune buggies now.

I LOVE FOOD.  Especially when it's ^^this^^ food :D
Then Lisa and I went back to enjoy the bay of pigs for pretty much the rest of the day.  There weren't a lot of other people there, so we stayed for a long time enjoying the waves and climbing on the rocks.  The sunset coming through on the rocks and waves was also pretty spectacular.







We started walking home, but thankfully ended up getting picked up by a cute couple with a dune buggy!  (I was watching barefoot because my feet were so sandy and would have rubbed really badly in my chacos.  I think that was a good thing though because I don't know if they would have pitied us enough to offer a ride if I had been wearing shoes haha.)  They dropped us off near a little boutique thing that we checked out for a bit....then left when we saw the price tags on everything. :P

We headed back to Flamboyant (yet again) because we were too tired to go look for new places and Lisa still really wanted fish in a banana leaf.  :)  It was a really good day, but we were both pretty tired from sun/swimming/hiking, so we went home and showered and watched Sweet Home Alabama on my ipod before bed.  It was a pretty great day of beaches and adventuring :)

DAY 6:

The last day.  *cries*

No, really.  I was so sad it was the last day.  Haha.

I had planned to run every day we were there but...didn't.  The last day though I knew I'd be so sad if I missed my chance though, so I got up early and ran to the port.  It was glorious and early and there was hardly anyone out yet.  I love that.  I ran out to the shark overlook to see if I could find any sharks (we heard they were there "in the morning" but had no idea when that was...).  I couldn't see any so I ran back home...all along the coastline and then along a cute island road.  Ah, the homesickness for Tonga was so real that morning.  I feel so lucky to have been so many beautiful places like these in my life!



Lisa and I packed and got our stuff ready so we could leave it by the front desk, then we caught a bus back out to the port in search of sharks.  The tide was still too low, so we hung out at the shark museum and the port beach for a while, but eventually got back to the shark overlook and saw...SHARKS!  For real.  Apparently they come into this bay every day to just rest and stuff.  There were only a few at first, but I think at some points we had as many as ten or so that we could see all at once!  So cool. (I like sharks *much* better from a safe distance :)

I wish you could see them even better, but it was so cool!



Eventually, it was time to head back, so Lisa and I went home and got more food at the per-kilo place.  Then we went back, grabbed our bags, and waited for the taxi to take us to the airport.

It's really funny how sad I was to leave that place.  I mean, besides it just being beautiful, it was one of those places that I just...felt like I really could be totally content to stay forever.  And hey, the lady at our hotel said she'd love to learn English if I ever want to come back and work there. :D

And just a few bonus pictures:




You can only take so many "normal" pictures when your hair looks like that all the time... :P



Thanks for a great trip, Fernando!!! :D

FERNANDO DE NORONHA: Island tour

DAY 4:
Island buggy tour!  We got to ride in a dune buggy!!!  I love buggies.  We road them across some sand dunes in the northeast last time I was here, and I was SO excited to do so again!  You can also rent them, but I mostly like sitting in the back (plus they're stick shift over crazy terrain) so it ended up being perfect to just get a guide to drive us around all day! :)

The day started out early, and we headed to the overlook of Leão (lion) beach, where we could see tons of turtle nests marked by Tamar!

Yes, I know you're all jealous of this fantastic 'do I had going the whole trip.




- Then we went to Sueste beach for snorkeling.  So...I had a love-hate relationship with snorkeling after my experience in Tonga, but they said there were lots of sea turtles and fish here and it's supposed to be a great place for snorkeling, so I decided to give it another shot.  Well, turns out I still don't love snorkeling itself, but it was SUCH a cool experience!  Now unfortunately, even though my Portuguese is definitely improving, it's still been hard to kick the habit of tuning out anyone speaking in Portuguese and assuming I won't understand anyway haha.  So I may or may not have missed the memo about there also being sharks in the water...

I SAW FREAKING SHARKS.  I just about had a heart attack.  The water wasn't very clear so the only way to see the other people in your group is to pull your head out of the water and find them.  But when you're actually snorkeling, it's easy to get separated in the strong waves.  So I was just off, snorkeling on my own when a freaking shark swam under me!  YIKES.  My heart was pounding about 500 times faster than it's supposed to be.  (Yeah, so if the shark didn't eat me I was pretty much a goner anyway :P )  We also saw a couple sea turtles, which were a lot more fun to see...because, you know, sea turtles don't eat people.  [Note: apparently the kinds of sharks in this bay also don't attack people, but, like I said...I missed that memo.]  I ended up seeing 4 sharks I think, and all of them looked about 5 feet long (water screws with my perception of things, but I'm pretty sure they were all longer than I am tall; but we'll say 5' to be safe.).  Some people only saw a few small ones (like one or two feet long) and I'm not sure why I kept seeing them! *sigh*   It's lucky I survived. ;)

I almost died!!!

...but I didn't :D
We had to wait forever for someone to bring us a new buggy after we went snorkeling (our tires were too bald to handle all the mud from the recent rainstorms), which was annoying but then we were off to one of the coolest beaches ever:  SANCHO BEACH!

Sancho is the beach where we stopped to snorkel, but we stayed pretty far out in the water on our boat (obviously) and the experience of being on that beach was way cooler!  First of all, to get there, you hike on this really neat trail that takes you to some gorgeous overlooks.





Then you have to climb down to the beach via some ladders (literally in the rocks) and crazy steep rock staircases.  It's so worth it, though!  The beach is beautiful, and literally surrounded by stunning cliffs (hence the complicated descent).  The sand was beautiful and the waves were perfect for diving and playing in!  On one side of the beach they got a little bit too rough for me, so we mostly stayed on the east side of the beach, but I really love strong waves; for as much time as I've spent living near oceans and beaches, the power of the ocean never ceases to amaze me.  I love it.

See?  This sign *proves* it's the most beautiful beach in the world ;)

Goin' down the ladder...

...into the rocks...

...through the tunnel...

...down the crazy stairs...

And we made it!! :D
View of Sancho from the overlook (that's the boat we were on a few days ago!)
Lisa and I enjoyed playing in the waves and taking cool pictures of the crabs scurrying around the rocks.  We left our stuff in the shade, and when we went to get it found a little guest perched on top. :P

photo cred to Lisa for this sweet crab shot

turns out I like lizards a lot more when they're *not* climbing into my stuff..

such cool wildlife all over the island

Unreal.

For lunch our guide took us back to Flamboyant (the restaurant where I had gotten fish) for a per/kilo buffet which was a little disappointing because we had heard the lunch menu was going to be fish in banana leaves... but the food was still good, so it all worked out. :)

After lunch we headed back out to the port side of the island that Lisa and I had explored a bit before.  They took us out to the shark museum and "shark overlook", which was fun to see (and down a little path where I never would have found it on my own!).




I'm SO glad I saw these after my shark encounter haha.

These two (above and below) are from a sawtooth shark.  Yikes!



After our time at the port, we went back to Cacima beach (which Lisa and I had been to) but also found out that Baia dos Porcos was just a little further down!  So for any of you who figured out what that name is, it is indeed the Bay of Pigs; apparently it looks a lot like the Bay of Pigs in Cuba.  It actually ended up being one of our favorite beaches.  A little bit harder to get to and walk around because of all the rocks, but it was a bit more secluded than the other beaches.  Some of the other beaches we went to had fewer people, but the baia dos porcos felt almost like the whole beach was a secret.  Lisa and I decided that the cool rocks and jungle feel of this particular beach felt almost prehistoric :)







We ended off our tour with a beautiful overlook of the sunset and Dois Irmãos.  It was such a long day, but so much fun!!




action selfie on a dune buggy!
We went home and enjoyed leftover fish for dinner, then went out for some yummy ice cream!



What a glorious day. :)